a forest resort
New Year’s. Felt like just another day while traveling, I didn’t feel much of a celebratory vibe in Khulna, nor did I hear any fireworks that night which was a good thing cuz I wanted some sleep anyway.
Whilst I ate my breakfast, I finally got to meet the man behind our WhatsApp chat: Russel. The owner of Beautiful Bangladesh Tours and Travels and whom I was going with to visit the Sundarbans Mangrove Forest.
It was an interesting affair, to say the least. He picked me up at my hotel and we sped off on his motorbike toward Sonadanga bus terminal again where we got on a bus heading to Mongla.
From there, we took a boat to the other side and then a tuk-tuk to a beautiful eco-cottage at Bonobibi Forest Resort. This was such a surprise for me as I had no idea something like this was in store in our itinerary. I had initially thought it was just going to be visiting the Mangrove Forest, but such an amazing treat was highly welcome especially since I was still recovering from a cough I got from Dhaka.
While relaxing at the main cottage, I got a chance to see a traditional game of Carrom and tried out the swings overlooking the main river. I was at peace here. I had a long rest in my cabin, which was pretty much the most exquisite place I had the chance to stay in Bangladesh. Spacious, ambient, and natural.
The food was also fantastic, a bit spicy as is with Bangladeshi cuisine but delicious nonetheless. After much more rest, we finally got to set out.
the first expedition
The Sundarbans had a vibe on its own as if we were entering another world. The boatman rowed towards the river channel and we were brought deeper into the mangrove forest. There were plenty of birds, the collared kingfisher is one that I remember, and there was also an orange one that was very rare. Russel was enthusiastic about this one.
We also got the chance to get off the boat and explore the inland a bit. The almost spiky roots protruding from the ground made it a bit hard to navigate but it truly felt like we were in the midst of a deep jungle.
The Sundarbans itself were alive.
Following the rhythms of the tide, it’s as if parts of the islands laid hidden, waiting to be discovered whilst some had plenty of traces of happenings. From the tracks left by animals to left over food.
It was golden hour so the colors of the sky was reflected well unto the calm waters.
After the expedition, the sun started to really set and we basked in its golden light all the way back to the resort where I got the chance to try out a four-player Carrom game while waiting for dinner.
Somehow, it was just me that day so evening was quite peaceful.
once upon a misty morning
The morning was shrouded in a mystical fog that made for the most hauntingly beautiful photos. Even more so when Russel’s brother and I departed towards the Sundarbans once more, into the mist where we encountered tons of animals. Dolphins, otters, mudskippers, spotted deer, and tons of birds.
We went to another path. This time we were also using a boat with an engine. I was quite worried if the noise was going to scare away the animals but we were able to see a lot today, even more than yesterday.
We made a brief stop by the banks just to bask in the silence and listen to the sounds of nature.
bonobibi
After getting back to the resort, we headed to the village to get a slice of the local life. Most particularly towards the new now-under-construction site for Bonobibi, the forest goddess of the Sundarbans.
We had to go through a muddy path which was quite funny as our feet were getting stuck.
The village chief explained to Russel in Bengali, the lore and he shared it with me afterwards in English. I found it most fascinating just because she is worshipped by both Muslims and Hindus, but only here in this region.
In fact, the village itself was a mix of both as I saw posters depicting Krishna and Radhe whilst the morning Islamic prayers blared even before the sun had risen, which really reminded me of my time in Bagerhat.
Russel then took me to one of the huts where they were currently making the new clay idols of Bonobibi. Funnily enough, it was only when I checked the keys of my cabin did I realized that the resort was named after Bonobibi herself.
birds of the sundarbans
Back at the resort, we still had a lot of time before lunch and while lazing about by the swings, it seems like Russel wanted to go for another round in the Sundarbans and I wasn’t one to turn down such an offer.
Off we went again, this time his two sons accompanying us. Another beautiful time capturing photos of plenty of birds.
koromjol
After lunch, we got on a bigger boat heading to Koromjol. The ride took us to the wider straights of the Sundarbans where I saw even more settlements by the banks. Local life was booming and it was incredible to see. We even saw a gigantic crocodile from afar before it scurried off as our boat approached.
Russel’s family and I disembarked at Koromjol to be greeted by tons of monkeys. We saw some deer in the breeding grounds and Russel summoned a giant crocodile who seemed to know its name, Alexander.
We went deeper and followed the walking trails of Koromjol, spotting tons of monkeys. From there, we returned to Molna but not before seeing such a dazzling and radiant sunset.
This time we had a private car back to Khulna which was great after such an awesome expedition.
