Oh Bagerhat! More than any other place in Bangladesh, it was Bagerhat that has truly stolen my heart.
One would expect to be awe-struck when visiting such a place that holds the title of “Ancient Mosque City“, and sure! The mosques were indeed magnificent. Reminiscent of the time when we were going into the jungles to find ancient temples in Cambodia, Bagerhat provides the same opportunity. That is, to immerse yourself in nature while exploring spiritual sites.
Yet, it’s not the mosques that are the star of the show. I personally found that the allure of Bagerhat lies with the people surrounding these man-made wonders. Bagerhat is some to a lot of tiny settlements, I wouldn’t even call it a village as they’re just these tiny huts around the jungle but there is so much life here. The curiosity and friendliness of the people in Bagerhat is so different from other cities like Dhaka and the nearby Khulna, that you’ll end carrying a smile the whole day.
My interactions with the Bangladeshi people in Bagerhat became one of my most fond memories while in the country. But of course, this guide will be making sure you get the most out of your visit! You’ll also discover all the best mosques to visit in an optimal walking route along with other essential tips.
History of Bagerhat
Bagerhat is an ancient city, founded in the 15th century by the revered saint General Ulugh Khan Jahan. The city was originally known as Khalifatabad.
Khan Jahan, a visionary of his time, not only envisaged Bagerhat as a center for Islamic education but also as a model of sustainable urban development. He utilized the local landscape, particularly its waterways, to create a city that was both spiritually enriching and practically self-sufficient.
Bagerhat’s architecture is a unique blend of traditional Bengali and Islamic styles, with more than 50 Islamic monuments scattered across the city, many of which have been remarkably preserved. These structures were built using baked brick and are notable for their intricate terracotta designs that adorn the walls and arches.
Must-See Mosques in Bagerhat
By following this route, you can visit all the remarkable mosques of Bagerhat. You’ll most likely be dropped off near the 60 Dome Mosque, you can back track a bit to visit Chunakhola and Bibi Begani Mosque before continung eastwards all the way to Khan Jahan Ali Mazar (on Google Maps it’s only written in Bengali), you’ll see a huge intersection right before encountering the main road leading up to it. It’s here where you’ll be coming back as there are buses here going back to Sonadanga Bus Terminal in Khulna. This whole route will take around 2 – 3 hours depending on your pace and how long you spend at each site.
1. Chunakhola Mosque
Touching down in Bagerhat, the ancient city of mosques, I finally found myself out in the countryside. The air was fresh for the first time during my whole stay in Bangladesh.
I passed by the 60 Dome Mosque and headed deeper into the jungle, walking by a vast field and past several idyllic settlements. Attracting the curious stares and greetings from passersby, unlike Dhaka though these stares carried a much lighter and friendlier gaze so I welcomed them with a smile.
I went first to Chunakhola Mosque which took me through a series of small settlements tucked away in the jungle, the curious children would come out and try to talk to me in the usual “Hello” and “How are you.” I followed a girl with a pink hijab as she walked towards the mosque it stood at the end of the pathway, overlooking the farmlands and ponds beyond.
The Chunakhola Mosque is a noteworthy example of the 15th-century Islamic architecture that flourished under the guidance of Ulugh Khan Jahan. This modest yet historically significant mosque is characterized by its single dome structure, a common feature in the mosques built during this period in the region.
2. Bibi Begani Mosque
Right near Chunakhola Mosque was Bibi Begani Mosque, this mosque was also superb. These ancient mosques that once flourished in the past have now become a dwelling for the local children, it seems like this is where they come to play.
Constructed in the 15th century, the mosque was purportedly built by Bibi Begni, believed to be the wife of Khan Jahan Ali. Architecturally, the Bibi Begni Mosque is notable for its pre-Mughal design, also featuring a single dome atop the main prayer hall.
3. Sixty Dome Mosque
After finishing the two mosques, I headed back via the other side of the field to finally check out the 60 Dome Mosque, where I had to pay a fee to enter.
The 60 Dome Mosque, more accurately known as the Shat Gombuj Masjid, is the crown jewel of Bagerhat’s Islamic architectural heritage and a UNESCO World Heritage Site that commands awe. Built in the 15th century by the city’s founder, Khan Jahan Ali, this monumental mosque is an enduring symbol of the golden age of Muslim Bengal.
Contrary to what its name might suggest, the mosque actually features 77 domes, supported by a staggering number of 60 pillars, which create a mesmerizing rhythm of arches and shadows within its expansive interior.
The exterior of the mosque is as imposing as its interior is serene. Each of the domes is subtly ribbed, catching the light at different angles throughout the day. There’s also the Bagerhat Museum here which I highly recommend visiting as it’s a part of your ticket.
4. Singair Mosque
Once you reach Singair Mosque, it’s about as good as time as any to get some lunch. As the next area to get some food is quite a ways away.
Right beside the restaurants was Singair Mosque, another unassuming yet brilliant mosque that was still being used to this day I presume, evidenced by the carpets inside.
The Singair Mosque might not grab headlines like the 60 Dome Mosque, but it’s got a charm that’s all its own. A modest, single-domed structure that might not shout for attention but definitely whispers for a closer look. Built in the 15th century, it’s one of those places where the history feels just as tangible as the bricks it’s built from.
Finishing this side of Bagerhat, I began a long walk through the jungle villages to reach the next destination. It was such an introspective walk, and the children were once again the star of the show. A group of them came running out of the gates to greet me, the cutest little girl asking for my name, “Nam ki?” I recall. I said chatted with them for a bit before saying goodbye and saw another huge field with farm animals grazing about, I sat by the bench and just felt the emotions inside me, thinking about what life has in store this year.
5. Ronbijoypur Mosque
I continued towards Ronbijoypur Mosque, where more kids were playing by the haystack. Such a simple appreciation for life! I wish I could be this happy over a pile of hay.
6. Khan Jahan Ali Mazar
The end of the road brought me to a busy intersection, there were more people here. The main road leading up to the Khan Jahan Ali Mazar, a much more modern mausoleum with a maroon facade.
The Khan Jahan Ali Mazar is a place of reverence and a touching tribute to the city’s founder, Khan Jahan Ali. A name that I’m sure you’re quite familiar with by now. The street leading up to it were laden with shops and restaurants on both sides so this can be another spot to grab a snack or two, just be wary that the prices are higher here.
Beyond the mausoleum was a huge lake where even more people were gathered. I can see the allure of this place, it’s quite picturesque.
7. Nine Dome Mosque
Finding the Nine Domes Mosque took a while as I went in the wrong direction. Eventually, I found it and I would rate it as the second best-looking mosque right after the 60 Domes one. Here, the village chief started chatting me up which was fun and a totally different experience from the Goaldi Mosque incident in Sonargaon.
What sets the Nine Dome Mosque apart is, as its name suggests, its nine domes, arranged in a three-by-three grid atop the structure. I also liked the fact that this mosque is found inside a jungle village of sorts. Just like all the other mosques on this list apart from the 60 Dome Mosque, you’ll have this place all to yourself in total peace and tranquility.
8. Reza Khoda Mosque
I was thinking of still going to Reza Khoda Mosque but I realized it was enough for the day, I returned to the intersection where there was thankfully a bus heading back to Khulna.
Based on the pictures though, it seems to be one of the most dilapidated mosques in the area, so I’m not also sure if it’s worth making the long journey to see a semi-destroyed mosque, though there is indeed something alluring about ancient ruins.
Where to Stay in Khulna
If you’re planning on going to visit Bagerhat, then you’re most likely going to be staying in Khulna, the gateway to the Sundarbans.
I stayed in Jatra Flagship Khulna City Center which is probably where a lot of travelers end up staying, for good reason too.
The rooms are modern, chic, and spacious. The bathroom as well. Air-conditioned, good wi-fi, toiletries, and other amenities. The beds were comfortable and clean. There is free breakfast that comes with toast and fruits. My only gripe was that laundry with them is quite expensive, and the laundry service ended up ruining one of my favorite tops.
Still, it’s probably the best place to stay in Khulna, the cost is reasonable too. It’s also around a 10 to 15 walk to Sonadanga Bus Terminal which is where you’ll need to be when going to Bagerhat or back to Dhaka.
How to Get Around Bagerhat
Bagerhat is a small area if you’re only covering the mosques and it’s easily and best done through walking.
Walking gives you the opportunity to be fully immersed in your environment, including the natural scenery and local life. It gives you plenty of opportunities to interact with the people as they will no doubt try to talk to you in a friendly and respectful manner, of course.
Another alternative is to tour the area by rickshaw. Most of the drivers know the place and can take you from one mosque to the next, though this will cost some money and you’ll be on a time restraint as well.
What to Know Before Going to Bagerhat
Here are some practical tips to ensure your visit is both enjoyable and secure:
- Bagerhat can get quite hot, especially during the dry season. Always carry water with you and use sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses to protect against the sun.
- Given Bagerhat’s religious significance, dressing modestly is respectful and can help avoid unwanted attention.
- When visiting mosques and mausoleums, follow the local customs—remove your shoes before entering, and women should carry a scarf to cover their heads.
- Exploring with a companion or in a group can enhance your safety, especially in less populated or more rural areas. Though I never felt unsafe while exploring Bagerhat, women travelers might have a different experience. Getting travel insurance is highly recommended for Bangladesh.
Best Time to Visit Bagerhat
The best time to visit Bagerhat is during the cooler, drier months from November to February. During this period, the temperatures ranges from about 12°C (54°F) in the cooler early mornings and nights, to around 28°C (82°F) during the day.
Visiting in these months also means you’ll be avoiding the monsoon season, which runs from June to October, when heavy rains can make some areas difficult to navigate and potentially disrupt travel plans.
How to Get to Bagerhat
Getting to Bagerhat from Khulna is straightforward, thanks to the well-connected roads and the availability of various transportation options. If you’re starting your journey from the Sonadanga Bus Terminal in Khulna, here’s how you can make your way to Bagerhat comfortably and efficiently:
- Bus: Several bus services operate directly from the Sonadanga Bus Terminal to Bagerhat, offering a convenient and economical way to travel. The journey typically takes about 1 hour, depending on traffic conditions. You can ask around or look for a bus with the Bagerhat sign. The fare is affordable at 100 BDT.
- CNG: For a more adventurous ride, you can take a CNG auto-rickshaw from Khulna to Bagerhat. While this might not be as comfortable as a bus, it offers a unique experience as it will only be you and the unfolding sceneries of rural Bangladesh.
Plan Your Trip to Bangladesh | Best Travel Resources
Book Your Accommodations
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Find Cheap Flights
- Kiwi.com – my go-to for booking and finding the cheapest flights and it’s helped me save tons of money. They do virtual interlining which is connecting flights from airlines that do not codeshare, so you can find routes that you wouldn’t be able to find normally.
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- GetYourGuide – is one of the best places to find unique tours and activities. I found that it’s an excellent way to meet fellow travelers and create fond memories. They are not only limited to tours as they also offer niche services such as skip-the-line tickets or private transfers.
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