Cycling through the summerscapes of Biei and Furano remains as one of my fondest memories spent in Hokkaido. And it’s definitely a must-do activity if you find yourself visiting amidst the halcyon days of the sun.
At the end of the day, I had no regrets even though I still had to hike Mt. Asahidake the next day.
Lavender fields stretch as far as the eye can see, punctuated by patches of colorful blossoms like poppies, lilies, and sunflowers. Now, imagine cycling through all this. The wind carries the subtle fragrance of blossoms, the horizon stretches out endlessly, and every pedal brings forward a new picturesque scene.
This is the Biei – Furano cycling experience. Are you ready to ride?
What to Know About Biei
Biei is a picturesque town famed for its rolling hills, lush landscapes, and vibrant fields of flowers. Often compared to the English countryside or the Tuscan hills of Italy, while other parts of Hokkaido are known for their Snow Festivals, Biei’s scenery are unlike any other in Japan.
The sheer vastness of Biei covers an expanse of roughly 677 sq km (261 sq mi). Despite its size, it’s the home to a tight-knit community of about 10,000 or so residents. This balance of space and community gives the town a really peaceful ambiance.
I found the town to be really “cute” if that’s the right word for it, wide open spaces with really western-looking homes which is not one might expect when going to the Japanese country-side. There was a certain quaintness to the whole area that made me feel really free, very different from the charms of Otaru even.
Where to Rent Bikes in Biei
What to Know About Furano
While Biei enchants with its hills, Furano captivates with its valleys and colors that can give an artist’s palette a run for its money.
Furano sprawls across an area of about 605 sq km (233 sq mi), making it slightly smaller than Biei, but no less expansive in terms of experiences. Furano also has a larger population at 22,500.
Interstingly, the city takes its name from the Ainu word “Fura-nui,” which means “Stinky Flame”. This is because the valley was associated with sulfuric fumaroles near Tokachi Peak. The Ainu are Japan’s indigenous people with their own unique culture that have a particularly large presence over at Hokkaido. (You can learn more about them over at Noboribetsu as they have the Upopoy National Ainu Museum.)
When one speaks of Furano, it’s hard not to mention the lavender fields. Come July, these fields are awash with a sea of purple, and the air is thick with their sweet scent.
Where to Rent Bikes in Furano
Most people start in Biei when cycling but there are also a few near Furano Station. However, I don’t recommend this route as Furano Station is quite a ways from Tomita Farm and there’s not much to see on the way there unless you plan to make some side trips further South to Ningle Terrace for example.
The Biei - Furano Cycling Course
The Biei – Furano Cycling Course will start from Biei and takes you through one amazing vista to the next. You’ll be going through flower fields, rolling hills, and farmlands with a 360-degree panoramic view most of the time and mountains kissing the horizon.
As you can see from the map above, Panorama Road (no. 5) and Tomita Farm (no. 6) in Furano is much further out. Once you get to Shikisai no Oka (no. 4), you have to make a decision whether you want to continue to Furano or start the trip back to Biei which will take you to more observatory posts. Check in with your body as well as the time if you’re renting. Most shops need you to return the bike by 18:00, so I really recommend starting early in the morning.
If you’re around Tokyo, you can also check out my Kawaguchiko Cycling Guide which also packs a pretty punch!
1. Shinei-no-Oka Observatory Park
You first stop takes you to Shinei-no-Oka Observatory Park, where you’ll see the iconic smiling haystack. It’s a prime destination to get an elevated view of the town’s famous landscapes.
It’s here that you’ll see just what’s in store for you and it’s a great introduction that’ll give you that burst of energy knowing things are gonna get more beautiful from here on out.
2. Christmas Tree
This is a wonderful lone spruce tree, aptly named the Christmas Tree. Biei has many popular trees that stand out against the backdrop endless fields. This combination truly makes them such amazing photo subjects.
In winter, they are even more majestic as proudly stand tall in a sea of white! But for the 8-meter Christmas Tree, there’s just something beautiful about it being solitary. Really makes you wonder if it’s lonesome.
3. Kanno Farm
Kanno Farm, with its sprawling flower beds rolling over gentle hills, the farm paints a vivid canvas indeed! Depending on which summer month you go, there’s always a different bloom at work.
After indulging in the panoramic views, you can seek respite at the Kinkonkan shop. Here, you can relish the authentic taste of Hokkaido with delicacies like freshly steamed potatoes laced with butter or indulge in crispy fried potatoes. Their white sweet corn, a local delight, is not to be missed either.
The best thing about Kanno Farm is that it’s free! You can walk around and do a tiny hike up to the observation deck for striking views.
4. Shikisai no Oka
Shikisai no Oka (Shikisai Hill) stands as the poster shot to the scenic summer splendor of Hokkaido. This is going to be one of the main highlights of the biking trip and boy oh boy, it’s worth all that peddaling. Be sure to leave out a lot of time for exploration and relaxation in this area.
Here, you’ll find cascading hills of all sort of flowers, and from afar they look surreal. Spread across 15 hectares, you’ll have an unparalleled floral experience no matter which way you look. You can expect to see some petunia, poppies, lavender, and sunflowers.
What makes this place unique is that you can rent a buggy for around 500 JPY and ride around the farmlands, or go on the tram for a tour around the park’s vicinity.
Weirdly enough, there’s also an alpaca farm which costs another 500 JPY where you can feed them.
5. Panorama Road
After Shikisai Hill, it’s going to be a long trip going to Kami Furano, but riding through Panorama Road will make you wish the journey never ends. Just seeing the patchwork fields, the meadows and the hills from either side. The feeling the sunlight and wind on your face.
It’s a feeling I can never forget. Just wow.
Don’t miss the iconic red house right in the middle of the fields and from here on out it’s straight to Tomita Farm.
6. Tomita Farm
Tomita Farm is an experience that encapsulates the essence of summer in Japan.
As you step onto the farm, the air is rich with the soothing fragrance of lavender. This isn’t surprising, given that Tomita is most celebrated for its vast expanse of lavender fields.
Come summer, these fields erupt in a purple hue. You can expect some crowds for sure.
But lavender is just one part of the story. The farm is also dotted with a multitude of other flowers scattered around a dozen or so fields, ensuring that the landscape is always splashed with color.
You can explore some greenhouses and participate in a perfume workshop, there’s tons to do here!
If you made it all the way, congrats but now it’s time to head back to Biei.
7. Chiyoda no Oka Observatory Deck
Now, it’s certainly possible to take the same route back but that would be a bit boring and I always like to go another route back whether it’s hiking or a cycling.
In this way, we can see more and make more out of the day!
Basically, you’ll be riding your way back to Shikisai no Oka but from there, you’ll make your way east, through some sideroads. You’ll most likely see some cows grazing just as I did.
You’ll come across Chiyoda no Oka Observatory Deck, from afar it looks like a tiny church and to be honest, why not? The view from here is simply divine!
8. Mizusawa Dam
Mizusawa Dam is a small body of water on the way to Sanai no Oka, to be honest it just looks like a small pond, but it does provide a sense of novelty after the endless fields.
Nearby, I found a peculiar tree that I can’t seem to find the name of, or perhaps it doesn’t have a name? It’s definitely quite photogenic. It did require for me to get off my bike and walk through the woods to reach.
9. Sanai no Oka Observatory Park
Sanai no Oka Observatory Park is the last site on this list. It’s a tiny hill but savor the moment because you’ll be back to Biei after this. The view is still just as great as the rest, and by this time you’ll also have that sweet golden hour going on for you.
You can also choose to go through Ikoigamori Park on the way back. And if you’re visiting during spring, you’ll see some cherry blossoms at the park.
Optional: Shirogane Blue Pond
The Shirogane Blue Pond is another surreal destination that often feels like a scene from a fantasy novel. It’s also reachable from Biei but it’s unfortunately on the opposite side, away from the cycling route. It’s certainly doable to cycle here, but unless you have your own bike, it might make the rest of the cycling tour time-pressured, especially if you’re still planning on riding towards Furano.
What’s truly fascinating about this pond is its ethereal blue hue. This is not a mere reflection of the sky, as one might initially think. The color is a result of natural minerals dissolved in the water. Specifically, aluminum and colloidal hydroxide particles from the nearby hot springs get into the pond and reflect the shorter wavelength blue light, giving the pond its unique color.
Beyond its color, what adds to the pond’s mystique are the dead, skeletal trees jutting out of its surface. These trees were once part of the landscape, but the construction of the Biei River dam in the early 1980s led to an influx of groundwater, which ultimately formed the pond and submerged these trees. They stand as haunting, silent witnesses to the changes wrought upon the landscape, providing a stark contrast to the pond’s beauty.
Though the pond was initially not a tourist destination, its popularity skyrocketed after Apple included an image of it as a wallpaper for their devices.
Getting to Shirogane Blue Pond is relatively easy. It’s about a 20-minute drive from Biei town, and there’s ample parking available. There are also local buses that make stops at the pond.
For the best experience, it’s recommended to visit during the early morning or late afternoon hours when the sunlight plays off the water in magical ways.
You can also opt to join a tour that goes to Shirogane Blue Pond and other sites on this list such as Tomita Farm.
Where to Stay
Where to Stay in Biei
Best Hotels in Biei:
- Biei Shirogane Onsen Hotel Park Hills – situated amidst the captivating mountains and pristine nature, a haven for relaxation and leisure. Boasting natural hot spring baths, a fitness center, and a massage salon, the hotel ensures a rejuvenating stay.
- UUHome Biei – offers a comfortable stay with the convenience of complimentary Wifi and private parking. Every room in the establishment is thoughtfully designed, boasting a terrace and a well-equipped kitchen featuring amenities like an oven and microwave.
- B Cycle – with a modern Scandinavian design, it provides a comfortable space across various room types. Although there is only one bath, there are three lavatories, and a sento (public bath) is nearby. The common living room has a large dining table and is equipped with WiFi.
Where to Stay in Furano
Best Hotels in Furano:
- La Vista Furano Hills Natural Hot Spring – offers air-conditioned rooms with private bathrooms, free WiFi, and amenities like flat-screen TVs. The hotel boasts a natural hot spring bath, sauna, restaurant, and 24-hour front desk.
- Winery Hotel and Condominium Hitohana – offers amenities like free WiFi, private parking, and an on-site restaurant. Each air-conditioned room comes with modern conveniences such as a flat-screen TV, fridge, and electric tea pot. The hotel is also well-suited for English speakers.
- Hotel Hanafuji Inn – features a restaurant, terrace, free WiFi, and private parking. This budget-friendly hotel offers air-conditioned rooms with modern conveniences such as a flat-screen TV, electric tea pot, and complimentary toiletries.
Best Time to Visit for Cycling
One of the best times to cycle around Biei-Furano is during the summer months, from late June to early August.
During this period, you can expect temperatures to hover between 20°C to 25°C (68°F to 77°F), offering a pleasant climate for cycling.
The vibrant flower fields will be in full bloom during this time, if you go around September, the famous lavender fields won’t be there anymore.
While cycling, the unpredictable nature of adventures means it’s always wise to be prepared for the unexpected. I always recommend getting travel insurance. Ensure your journey remains uninterrupted by securing with SafetyWing.
How to Get There
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By Air: Asahikawa Airport is the nearest airport to Biei. From major cities in Japan, including Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya, there are direct flights to Asahikawa.
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By Train: The JR Furano Line connects Biei with Asahikawa and Furano. If you’re coming from Sapporo, you can either take the JR Limited Express Lilac or the JR Limited Express Super Kamui to Asahikawa or taking a bus for a more scenic ride. From there, transfer to a local train on the JR Furano Line to reach Biei or Furano. The total journey time from Sapporo to Biei is approximately will take around 3 hours.
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By Car: If you prefer driving, renting a car is a viable option, especially if you plan to explore the scenic beauty of the Biei area at your own pace. From Asahikawa, it’s a straightforward drive south to Biei, taking about 30 minutes. Likewise, from Furano, it’s about a 50-minute drive north to Biei. You can even do the whole cycling route via car if you prefer!
Plan Your Trip to Hokkaido | Best Travel Resources
Book Your Accommodations
- Booking.com – the world’s leading online booking platform for accomodations around the world, they have an extensive amount of available listings with zero booking fees and best price guarantees.
- Hostelworld – a backpacker’s best friend, Hostelworld has the largest collection of hostels and guesthouses for affordable prices.
Don’t Forget Insurance
- SafetyWing – from Nomad Insurance, an insurance by nomads for nomads. They understand our lifestyle well and have really comprehensive and flexible plans that cater to any traveler.
Find Cheap Flights
- Kiwi.com – my go-to for booking and finding the cheapest flights and it’s helped me save tons of money. They do virtual interlining which is connecting flights from airlines that do not codeshare, so you can find routes that you wouldn’t be able to find normally.
Join Tours & Activities
- GetYourGuide – is one of the best places to find unique tours and activities. I found that it’s an excellent way to meet fellow travelers and create fond memories. They are not only limited to tours as they also offer niche services such as skip-the-line tickets or private transfers.
Catch a Ride
- Rentalcars.com – nothing beats the freedom of the road, Rentalcars.com is the world’s largest online car rental service. They operate across 160 countries so they’re the perfect partner to work with if you find yourself wanting a ride.
