What is Khongoryn Els?
The Khongoryn Els dunes, formed over millennia, are a result of complex interactions between the wind, sand, and the unique topography of the Gobi Desert.
The formation of these dunes begins with the erosion of sandstone, a process driven by wind and extreme temperature variations common in desert environments. The eroded sand is then transported by strong desert winds, gradually accumulating and forming dunes. Over time, these dunes evolve into the towering structures seen today.
The crescent shape of many dunes at Khongoryn Els, known as barchans, is characteristic of their formation in areas with a predominant wind direction.
The landscape surrounding Khongoryn Els is marked by stark contrasts. On one side, the dunes are bordered by the Altai Mountains, providing a rugged backdrop of rocky outcrops and steep cliffs.
On the other, they blend into the arid plains of the Gobi Desert, with sparse vegetation and wide, open skies. This juxtaposition creates a dramatic and visually stunning environment, where the soft curves of the dunes contrast with the harsh, angular terrain of the mountains and plains.
Why is Khongoryn Els Special?
Historically, the Gobi Desert has been more than just a natural barrier; it has been a crossroads for various nomadic tribes and a conduit for trade and cultural exchange.
The ancient Silk Road, one of the world’s earliest trade routes, skirted the edges of the Gobi, bringing merchants, travelers, and missionaries from diverse cultures.
Khongoryn Els, as a prominent landmark within the Gobi, has been a witness to these historical movements, standing as a silent sentinel while empires rose and fell around it.
In Mongolian culture, the Gobi Desert and by extension, Khongoryn Els, are imbued with deep spiritual meanings. The desert is often seen as a place of isolation and introspection, a space where one can connect with the natural world and the ancestral spirits.
The Singing Sands, with their enigmatic sounds, are sometimes perceived as the desert speaking, a notion that one can’t exactly blame the nomads of that time for thinking. I mean, imagine if you were the one hearing these strange sounds coming from the very heart of the sand dunes.
The Singing Sands Phenomenon
The phenomenon of the “Singing Sands” occurs when the conditions are just right, usually on warm, dry days when the sand is loose and dry.
Scientifically, the “singing” is understood to be caused by the movement of sand grains on the surface of the dunes. As the wind or even a person walking displaces these grains, they create small avalanches of sand that cascade down the dune’s slope. The friction between these sand grains generates static electricity, and it’s this movement that produces the audible vibrations, or “singing.”
The size, uniformity, and humidity level of the sand grains, along with the dune’s size and shape, all contribute to the intensity and frequency of the sound. It’s a natural symphony, unique to vast sandscapes like Khongoryn Els.
What to Expect when Visiting Khongoryn Els
Most tours would visit here around sunset time which is arguably the best time. The dunes get coated in the vibrant colors of golden hour and you’ll have to work hard to see the sun setting over the horizon which is on the other side of the towering dunes.
I recommend going barefoot for this one, it’s easier but make no mistake. This will be a brutal hike, take your time to rest and enjoy the views of the ever-expanding Gobi desert as you ascend higher up the dunes. At one point, it’ll get so steep, you’ll be forced to crawl (and reconsider your life choices) but once you get to the top, it will be so, so worth it.
You’ll see the endless rolling dunes and the radiant desert sun.
Some other activities include sandboarding, depending on your tour, some boards will be provided so you can enjoy a thrilling slide down, though jumping and running down the dunes is just as fun, in my opinion.
There will also be camel rides available if you so choose to do so, either in the morning the next day or on the day you arrive.
One other important thing to note is that the campgrounds here actually have a shower! One of the only places in our whole 5-day trip to Gobi to have one, so be sure to savor and make full use of this. Unfortunately, it’s only cold water which is perhaps bearable in the summer months, but we were there during the shoulder season between Winter and Spring, needless to say, it was quite an invigorating shower at night.
Best Time to Visit Khongoryn Els
The best time to visit Khongoryn Els is typically during the Mongolian summer months, from June to August. In summer, the temperatures range from 20°C – 30°C (68°F – 86°F), making it pleasant for activities like climbing the dunes, camel trekking, and enjoying the stunning desert scenery.
Also, the warmer weather increases the likelihood of experiencing the unique “singing” phenomenon of the sands.
Late spring (May) and early autumn (September) are also good times to visit. These shoulder months offer slightly cooler temperatures and fewer tourists, providing a more solitary experience of the desert. We went during Spring and it was still a blast.
If you still haven’t booked a tour, I recommend either staying with UB Guesthouse in Ulaanbaatar or just contacting them for the rates, you’ll be surprised at how affordable they are.
Our Journey to Khongoryn Els
The next morning after Tsagaan Suvarga, I made my way to the nomadic family’s ger to give them some hand gifts. Milk tea that I had brought all the way from Japan.
They’re the second family I shared them to and I still had so much left. I was able to invite the others inside later and they got the chance to see and have that cultural experience as well.
We also stopped by a farm that was run by UB Guesthouse and the nomadic family. This time the journey was much longer, we had lunch at a restaurant in a small town.
I was able to give the gang a crash course on photo editing using Lightroom and helped Carmen edit some of her photos which she was really happy with. We also stopped by a small village to refuel on water where we were able to interact with a lot of the local children.
The roads took us through deserts, grasslands, and even mountains and valleys. As we went closer and closer towards Khongoryn Els, we were able to see from a distance a cloud of smoke that was moving too fast to be a horse, they turned out to be gazelles! Such magnificent creatures.
Arriving at our next camp, we found the ger to be quite warm already, it was a foreshadowing of the horrible hot night that was to come.
The surroundings were spectacular with sand dunes all around and plenty of camels.
Carmen, Nanami and Ryo were the first ones to go on a camel ride. Hayata and Changyoon had an armwrestling match while we were waiting. I was sharing some of my worries with Khulan that we might not have time to catch the sunset above the sand dunes at this rate but she reassured me and tried explaining her plan but her English wasn’t enough and in the end we just laughed and I told her that I’ll just trust her.
When it was our turn for a camel ride, one of the nomads went back halfway and gave me the reigns for Hayata’s camel, I was thrilled, we were like a mini-camel caravan now with Changyoon in front of me. We seemed to be heading towards a different direction, going towards the sand dunes where Gana went ahead to pick us up, saving us time. Khulan was then saying “Now you understand?” to which we both laughed some more.
The sand dunes that seemed so close appeared to be much further as the drive still took a couple of minutes and when we did arrive, I was both ecstatic and bewildered at the sheer size of it, the highest sand dune was around 300 meters and we had only 30 minutes to scale that before the sun set. It was game face on, and Carmen and I were leading the pack, motivated.
Motivation slowly drained as we waddled through the sand, I forgot just how difficult it was walking on it, Carmen reminded me to step on the footsteps of others which did make it easier however, we still haven’t even begun the hike. I was barefeet and the hike was absolutely brutal.
In our rush to catch the sunset, we had also forgotten to bring water so I was on a full on survival run. Going up slowly but surely, it was a mental battle as much as it was a physical one.
From two-legged and I had to go on all fours as it was getting so steep, I had only felt this way during the Salkantay trek and Mt. Fuji, this overwhelming feeling of wanting to just turn tail and give up, losing hope that I’ll be able to see the other side of this dune.
At the same time, my indomitable spirit rose up to the challenge, wanting it so much I kept on going no matter what, praying to Tara or to any being to just give me the strength to keep pushing on.
I passed by a Korean guy who was also staring at the sand, contemplating his life decisions no doubt. I encouraged him and we pushed forward a bit but soon he was left in the dust, he urged me to move on and I parted ways with him with a heavy heart but with hopes that we would meet again at the top.
Hayata at this point had overtaken me while Carmen had joined the others below, I had to keep going on. It still seemed like a monumental task but eventually Hayata made it to the top first, this spurred me to keep pushing. Finally, the peak was at hand and I made it second, the sun setting in pretty close to the horizon but it was still there, the colors magnificent, a view very much well-earned.
It was made even better as slowly the rest of the group came with Ryo being the last. It turned perfect when Ryo was the only one in our group who had brought water, now I was energized and I think it was really this day where I felt a strong bond with the group. Such a profound moment to celebrate this friendship, scaling a giant dune and every one making it just in time for sunset. I was thankful for this memorable experience.
I was even able to see the Korean dude again, we shook hands, no words needed.
The way down the dunes was unbelievably easy and so much fun, I ran down for a bit and walked the rest of the way with Carmen, catching up with Khulan and Gana as they were preparing our dinner in the desert. We still had some blue hour photography when the rest of the group arrived and we got amazing silhouette shots.
Dinner was also a nice experience, eating in the dark with just some lights with feet on the sands. On the way back, I even saw a hedgehog scuttling around some brush.
Back at camp, Hayata, Changyoon and I tried taking a shower out in the cold night with some water bottles, Khulan later saw us and laughed at us. She said that there was a shower right there, at first we all thought she was joking but she showed us where so now we were these half-naked idiots wet in the cold.
I went back to take a shower but my glasses’ screw came undone and I lost one of the lens somewhere. There were some Koreans who helped me find the lens but the screw was gone, screw it. I went back to our tent and knew just who to ask. Ryo, ever the reliable, had some tape and we were able to MacGyver up my glasses and hey, it lasted the rest of the trip.
At night, it was Changyoon’s turn to be the DJ as they played some more games. Ryo joined them this time around while Carmen and I were chilling.
The night turned out to become one of the challenging nights as they stoked the fire with some wood, the ger turned into a sauna. The heat staying all throughout the night even until morning, everyone had a hard time sleeping but Ryo and I were able to sleep just fine. Changyoon had the worst of it and he had to keep going out the ger to cool off, he said he even saw a ghost that night!
The next day, we were going to Yolyn Am, the Valley of Ice.
