Head on to the Saitama Prefecture, where Sayama Hills’ verdant expanse of nature offers a gentle reprieve from Tokyo’s urban hustle.
Spanning approximately 3,500 hectares, the hills intertwine two cities – Hanno and Tokorozawa.
Often lovingly termed as “Totoro’s Forest”, this area isn’t just rich in biodiversity but is also steeped in cinematic lore.
While there are numerous Totoro’s Forests scattered about, Sayama Hills is so much more than that. You’ll also find picturesque lakes and sprawling nature parks!
Why is it Called Totoro's Forest
For many, Sayama Hills is synonymous with the enchanting world of “My Neighbor Totoro”.
This association is no accident.
The film’s director, Hayao Miyazaki, was deeply inspired by the landscape and serenity of these hills, drawing parallels between its natural beauty and the whimsical world he wished to portray.
The forest, with its towering trees and secretive clearings, was the perfect backdrop for the tale of two young sisters encountering magical forest spirits.
Miyazaki’s love for the forest wasn’t just confined to his films.
Along with the Studio Ghibli team and many local supporters, he became a vocal advocate for the conservation of Sayama Hills, ensuring that future generations could experience the magic he saw.
Top Things to Do in Sayama Hills
Totoro's Forest (Totoro no Mori)
Totoro’s Forest was one of the real special places for me.
After finding out that Huong, my friend from Vietnam, had to leave Japan, I decided to make some last memories to send her off. She was literally my first friend in Japan and we’ve explored a lot of other places such as Yokohama and Ashikaga Flower Park. (I also later visited her in Hanoi which was also a ton of fun!)
The forest owes its conservation to the relentless efforts of the Totoro no Furusato Foundation, established in 1990, with the famed Hayao Miyazaki as one of its members.
Prior to its conservation, this area was under significant threat from urban encroachment, deforestation, and illegal waste disposal.
In response, both Saitama Prefecture and conservation enthusiasts from Waseda University rallied together in 1986 to protect the hills.
By 1990, their efforts culminated in the formation of the Totoro no Furusato Foundation.
Most of the designated “Totoro Forests” can be found in the northern part of Sayama Hills.
There are plenty of forests and trails to choose from though they are not continous per-se, just small patches here and there.
We found some real gems all the way at Totoro’s Forest #33,34,41 including some flower fields and a sort of marsh with a board walk. Though Totoro’s Forest #1 is still the most popular.
Kurosuke's House
This house, recognized as a tangible cultural asset, sits in a region safeguarded by the Totoro Fund.
Besides being a tourist attraction, Kurosuke’s House also functions as the fund’s main office.
Entry to the house is free, but they appreciate donations to aid in its maintenance. A dedicated donation area is set up in the entrance, and Ghibli-themed merchandise, including Totoro items, are available for purchase.
A highlight is of course, the full-sized Totoro displayed in one of the traditional tatami rooms.
The upper floor houses a compact museum, featuring details about the Totoro Fund, Totoro forests, and glimpses of Ghibli films.
On the premises, you’ll also find a tea processing unit and an ancient storehouse showcasing a “My Neighbor Totoro” diorama.
Hachikokuyama Park
Hachikokuyama Park is one of the hidden gems in the Tokorozawa area!
I went here with Sophie, a good friend who I’ve been tons of adventures with from the sand-baths in Ibusuki in Miyazaki, to volcanoes in Kagoshima and a few hikes here and there at Mt. Nokigiri and Mt. Oyama.
This time around, it was really just a place for us to unwind. Hachikokuyama Park is more than just a park, it’s actually huge, bigger than some of the Totoro’s forests around the area, it even has its own trails with some wide open spaces in between to rest up under the shade.
To the south of Hachikokuyama Park is Kitayama Park, during summer there’s an Iris festival there where the fields are full of Iris flower!
It’s a great idea to make this a stop before continuing on to Tama Lake so you’ll feel rewarded after putting in some effort of a tiny hike.
Tama Lake
Tama Lake is one of the crucial reservoirs that supply Tokyo with its drinking water. Despite being man-made, it’s just as picturesque as the natural lakes like Kawaguchiko and Ashinoko,
With its origins as a part of the larger Tama River (which I totally recommend seeing during Autumn in the Okutama area), this artificial reservoir was constructed to cater to the increasing water demands of a rapidly growing population.
The lake is really picturesque, the best part is bridge you can cross and at the center you get breathtaking views of the town on one side, and the sprawling lake on the other.
The reflection shots here are perfect on a calm day, during sunset is even better!
Sayama Nature Park
Right beside Sayama Lake (not to be mistaken with Tama Lake as there are actually two within close vicinity of each other), is Sayama Nature Park.
Just like Hachikokuyama Park, Sayama Nature Park is another green oasis tucked away on the outskirts of the city.
This park is less of a hike and more of a stroll though the highlight is definitely Sayama Lake.
Sayama Lake
What sets Sayama Lake apart from the aforementioned Tama Lake is that here, you can see much better views of Mt. Fuji.
Both these reservoirs – Sayama Lake and Tama Lake – are surrounded by dense forests and present breathtaking mountain views. On certain clear winter days, the snow-clad peak of Mount Fuji seems to rise directly behind these lakes.
Interestingly, while these reservoirs are close enough to be reached by a short walk, they are situated in different prefectures. Sayama Lake is actually part of Saitama, whereas Tama Lake is part of Tokyo.
Sayama Lake is absolutely beautiful in Autumn, we could even see it and Mt. Fuji, all the way from Mt. Takao!
How to Get to Sayama Hills
Sayama Lake & Totoro’s Forest
- From Ikebukuro Station: Board the Seibu Ikebukuro Line and alight at Nishi Tokorozawa Station. Transfer to the Seibu Sayama Line and disembark at Seibu Kyujomae, which is conveniently located right in front of Seibu Prince Dome.
- From Shinjuku Station: Take the JR Chuo Soba Local Line up to Kokubunji. Here, change to the Seibu Tamako Line, and then switch to the Seibu Yamaguchi Line. The final stop, Seibu Kyujomae, is your destination.
Tama Lake
- From Shinjuku Station: Start with the JR Chuo Soba Local Line from Shinjuku and travel to Kokubunji. Switch to the Seibu Tamako Line and continue till its terminus, Seibu Yuenchi Station.
Best Time to Visit Sayama Hills
The best time to visit largely depends on what you’re seeking from the experience but here’s a seasonal breakdown:
Spring (March to May): Cherry blossoms in full bloom, offering picturesque views and a soft pink hue throughout the region. The weather is mild, and the pleasant temperatures make it an ideal time for hiking and outdoor activities.
Summer (June to August): Lush greenery engulfs Sayama Hills, and while the weather can get humid and warm, the forests provide a cool escape. Plus, Kitayama park has fields full of Iris flowers!
Autumn (September to November): Autumn foliage turns the hills into a palette of red, orange, and gold. This is arguably the most picturesque time to visit, especially for photographers.
Winter (December to February): The landscape becomes more serene, offering a peaceful ambiance. On clear days, the snow-capped Mount Fuji provides a majestic backdrop.
