this is dhaka
I got on a long flight from Tokyo to Dhaka where I got to catch up on several movies that I had wanted to watch including The Matrix, the Little Mermaid, and Elementals.
Touching down, I found myself in a very old airport, greeted immediately by the face of Mujib, a prominent figure in Bangladesh’s political landscape. I easily made my way through immigration and out into the airport. The hotel I was staying in was supposed to send me a private transfer but I quickly realized it wasn’t going to happen.
I stepped out into the open, with the strong scent of incense and perfume wafting through the air and the call to prayers blaring through the sirens. This is Dhaka.
I called an Uber motor so I could get to know the city a bit more through my senses, and after waiting a long time, we finally found each other.
My driver tried to take me through a path but we were stopped by the guard, he tried to make an excuse that I was a foreigner but we had to turn back and take the freeway. With traffic all around, we stopped right in the middle so he could go pee. We eventually made it to my destination which was Nascent Gardenia Residences but it ended up being the wrong one, the correct one being at Gulshan. We had to go there instead next.
It was already dark when we arrived but hey, at least I made it. One thing I noticed about Bangladesh was that it had great hospitality. The bellboy in this hotel was some of the most happy to serve if I’ve ever seen one. He was excited, extremely pleasant and helpful. Showing me every part of the room. I bowed to him out of habit and he bowed back even lower, such a funny guy.
I went out for dinner, with the strong stench of garbage and smoke all around. I reached Kolya Restaurant where I ordered a vegetable biryani. Here as well, the hospitality was a bit next level to the point where I felt like being spoiled. The waiter was straight up serving me the food from the dish to my plate, again and again. The food was great though and I ended up finishing everything.
I went back to my room, took a shower, and got ready to wake up early the next day to explore Sonargaon.
first morning in bangladesh
Waking up early in the morning, getting a shower and a much-needed breakfast, I set off towards Sonargaon. The air was still fresh, the temperature cool and the morning oh-so beautiful. My Uber took me out of Dhaka and straight onto the highway. The journey was mind-boggling for me as this was the first time I was seeing Dhaka in broad daylight, the colors, the sounds, the people, and the buildings were all so interesting.
My Uber dropped me off a few roads away from Sonargaon and I had to walk for 10 minutes or so which was also great as I saw the slow-paced life of the rural areas, not to mention all the stares I got along the way. Not so great.
When I got to Sonargaon, I noticed the door was locked but people were going in anyway so I just let myself in and took some photos of the building’s reflection on the pool. Not long after, someone called my attention and told me that the place opens after 10. I came too early and didn’t really have any idea on what to do for the remaining 2 hours or so and he mentioned something about Goaldi Mosque which also happens to be on my list. I decided to just go there then.
meeting misfortune
The long walk took me through fields, ponds, and huts until there it was: an ancient-looking mosque with palm trees growing at its side. I was minding my own business and taking pictures until this dude showed up behind me, closing the gates. He started talking to me with the basic pleasantries, “Hello, how are you.” He showed me that there was a path to the side of the mosque and later he suddenly said he wanted a hug and that he liked me. This was weird, but okay. No hugs, but I he extended his hand for a handshake, that I can do, I guess?
He then said “Picture” so I thought he wanted a selfie or something but then he showed me an adult video, begging me “You and me, please.” This was all very insane at that point, my fight or flight response was triggering and a tinge of panic was settling on. It was the first time I found myself in such a situation, I told him “No, you’re crazy.” He once again begged “Please!” I once again stood my ground and firmly said “No!” He then said, “Okay, goodbye.” Bye indeed, I skedaddled out of there in the opposite direction only to realize it was a dead-end and I had to walk in the direction where he came from.
Luckily, there was a group of women traveling that way so I just walked with their group all the while keeping an eye on this guy. I saw him playing with a boy as we passed him. It was really stupid of me but at that time I had thought to myself that perhaps it was his nephew or something, my mind wasn’t operating at full after such a traumatizing experience but I should have known better thinking back in hindsight. I was just so lost in that moment.
the abandoned city
In any case, I made it to Panam Nagar, an abandoned merchant town and one of the main draws of Sonargaon. It still wasn’t open so I just sat by the nearby market watching the people go about their day. A group of students came by and there was a puppy that stole the show.
Once Panam opened, I went inside and started snapping away, trying to forget the horrible event that happened earlier. It was just a short road but the buildings were very intricate and historic. After finishing, I had to walk back to the same road and down to Sonargaon’s museum area. I realized I had already taken the photo I had wanted and I wasn’t really sure if I wanted to pay the entrance fee just to see the museum so I booked an Uber back to Dhaka.
While waiting, a mute beggar or a really good actress approached me, I had thought she wanted some food and I confirmed with my body language so I gave her the apple I took from the hotel this morning. She laughed and showed me money, I thought she wanted to pay for it or something so I told her “Oh, no need,” this made her laugh more and pat my head. It was a nice exchange though, of course, I knew she wanted cash.
Soon enough, my Uber arrived and off we went back to Dhaka.
old dhaka
My Uber drove me to Dhakeshwari National Temple, one of the few prominent Hindu temples in Dhaka. I was immediately greeted by familiar faces including Ganesha and Durga. It was really amazing to see such large and ornate statues. The inside was also very clean and peaceful, a perfect oasis amidst the chaos of Dhaka. The temple colors and shapes were very photogenic.
From the Hindu temple, I walked to Khan Mohammad Mridha Mosque where I met a kind Muslim man who seemed so happy to have met a foreigner. The mosque here was old and surrounded by residential buildings yet it still maintained a certain level of tranquility as well.
Traveling from one place to another in Dhaka was quite an experience in itself. My senses were constantly bombarded by the smell of garbage and exotic perfumes, spices and food. The sounds of horns blaring from the rickshaws, the constant chatter and shouts of people all around. The never-ending waves of crowds that I had to push through and the piercing stares of everyone who ever caught a glimpse of me. It was a mental and physical battle all at once and it took a lot from me just to go a few meters.
Eventually, I reached Lalbagh Fort, one of Dhaka’s prized jewels. A beautiful place with an expansive landscape. Another brief respite from the city, and a very welcome one at that. Walking around and taking photos of the ruins juxtaposed against the modern structures was very fun as well. Many people here were also curious and friendly enough to say the usual “Hello” and “How are you?”
I left to find Chawkbazar Shahi Jame Masjid next. This was a mosque tucked in a bazaar as the name suggests but honestly, I couldn’t find it nor could I bring myself to explore to find it as everything was just too overwhelming so I skipped it and went to Tara Masjid, the Star Mosque.
I particularly liked the wall of this mosque and its intricate engravings, it seemed like it was also prayer time so I dared not intrude on their space. I made my way to the Armenian Church which was something I didn’t expect to find in Bangladesh but here it was. The kind caretaker opened the lock of the church and I made my way up to the rooftops to see Dhaka from a different angle. Not bad at all!
In search of Gol Talab, I ended up in another bazaar but this time I was able to snag a shot of a vendor and his rug store, really dope shot too. I asked for directions until someone approached me and told me to follow him. He led me to a dark alley, into some dark buildings but beyond that was Gol Talab, a man-made circular pond. This was perfect because all I had to do was follow this route to end up in Ahsan Manzil Museum, the Pink Palace.
I definitely didn’t expect to see such a magnificent building in Dhaka, the palace was huge and the interior also took a while to fully explore. The main highlight of course was the pink facade the building had.
Satisfied with the day, I went to Sadar Ghat to try and find food and perhaps try to visit Ruplal House. But a restaurant caught my eye: Buriganga Riverview Restaurant. That seemed like a good a place as any to grab some food as I was quite hesitant about getting street food.
I ordered some pineapple fried rice and vanilla ice cream for dessert. After eating, I called my Uber and spent a lot of time outside catching the golden hour and seeing the hundreds of boats crossing the river. Right outside, there seemed to be a flash rally happening as the elections were still underway in Bangladesh. My Uber had to swerve in and out but I was able to make it back to my hotel in time.
Ate some more dinner for the long journey ahead, another Uber to the train station to catch a sleeper train to Khulna because I was visiting the Sundarbans. Unfortunately, Dhaka wasn’t too kind to me as I was already feeling a bit of a sore throat by this time. Should have worn a mask.
the sleeper train to khulna
The sleeper train was surprisingly comfortable, I had the whole cabin to myself so it was a huge plus. Peaceful yet I couldn’t get good sleep due to the overall environment plus I was getting sick. Dozing on and off, we finally arrived in Khulna around 5:30 AM or so. Drowsily, I packed up my things and set off in the dark. Approached by some tuk-tuk drivers that I kindly turned down as the place wasn’t that far, I wanted to get a feel of Khulna even though the sun had barely risen.
I put on my hoodie to not stand out and walked deeper into town. Here, it was as if time had stood still with nary a sound or sign of life aside from the occasional street cat.
I got to a dead-end and had to circle around the block to make it to Jatra, my hotel. The gate was locked and I couldn’t see anyone manning it. I took a peek into the glass and tapped on it but there was no response. Thankfully, I remembered that a guy from the hotel messaged me on Whatsapp. I called the number and he answered and soon enough I was checking in. He charged me an additional 1,000 taka for a half-day stay which was fine, at least I finally got to take a shower and get some much-needed sleep.
Later in the morning, I had to pull myself up because I had to get to Bagerhat. I began my walk towards Sonadanga Bus Terminal, on the way, I stopped by a supermarket to get some breakfast and the pharmacy for some medicine for my throat.
