Heading out from Dhaka for a day trip? Sonargaon is your go-to destination.
The “City of Gold”, was once the flourishing capital of ancient Bengal. Today, the star attraction here is Panam Nagar, a street lined with the hauntingly beautiful, decaying mansions of wealthy merchants from the colonial era.
And let’s not forget about the natural beauty surrounding Sonargaon. With the lush greenery and the serene waters of the nearby rivers, it’s a breath of fresh air—quite literally—from the hustle and bustle of Dhaka.
So, if you’re looking to add a dash of adventure, a touch of history, and a whole lot of cultural richness to your Dhaka visit, Sonargaon ticks all the boxes. It’s not just a day trip; it’s a journey back in time and a chance to see a different side of Bangladesh’s storied past. Ready to explore? Sonargaon awaits.
History of Sonargaon
Sonargaon has historical roots beginning from the13th century when it emerged as a prominent city during the reign of the Bengal Sultanate. Specifically, under the rule of the Ilyas Shahi dynasty in the 14th and 15th centuries, Sonargaon was designated as one of the dual capitals of the Bengal Sultanate, alongside Gaur.
It’s estimated that, at its peak, the muslin trade contributed significantly to the region’s economy, with European traders in the 16th and 17th centuries recording the export of thousands of pieces of muslin to markets as far away as Europe and Asia.
The Portuguese, attracted by this thriving trade, established their presence in Sonargaon around the early 16th century. Their interaction with the region was not always peaceful; accounts from the period detail conflicts with local rulers as well as piracy, which impacted trade routes.
The decline of Sonargaon began in the late 16th century when the Mughal Empire, under Emperor Akbar, consolidated control over Bengal and shifted the capital to Dhaka. This move, coupled with the silting of local rivers led to a gradual decrease in Sonargaon’s commercial importance. By the 18th century, Sonargaon had largely faded from prominence as a major urban center.
How to Get to Sonargaon
Top Things to Do in Sonargaon
1. Drop by the Folk Art and Craft Museum
Perhaps the most recognizable icon of Sonargaon, the Folk Art and Crafts Museum is super photogenic and would most likely be the first thing that catches your eye one you arrive at the ticket booth. It was established in 1975 by the renowned Bangladeshi cultural advocate Shilpacharya Zainul Abedin. His vision was to preserve and display Bangladesh’s folk artistry, a mission that the museum continues to fulfill today.
The museum itself is spread over a large area, featuring several buildings that house a diverse collection of over a thousand artifacts. These include textiles, metal crafts, woodwork, pottery, and traditional musical instruments, each carefully curated to represent the cultural heritage of various regions across Bangladesh.
The museum is also home to a reconstructed village, offering a glimpse into rural Bangladeshi life. Though this is something you can still see by walking around Sonargaon.
It operates from Saturday to Thursday, with a break at midday. Note that it opens around 9AM. I went there a bit too early so I just lapped around the area.
2. Explore Panam Nagar
Panam Nagar stands as a hauntingly beautiful reminder of Sonargaon’s once-thriving past. This ancient city was originally built in the late 19th century as a trading and residential area for the wealthy Hindu merchant community during British rule.
The street, lined with around 52 residences, offers a rare glimpse into colonial-era architecture blended with traditional Bengali designs. These grand mansions, once bustling with life, now stand silent, their intricate facades and ornate details speaking volumes of a bygone era.
Despite its deserted state, each building in Panam Nagar tells a story. The construction style reflects a mix of European influences and local craftsmanship, with high columns, spacious verandas, and beautifully decorated walls. The use of imported materials alongside local terracotta plaques showcases the wealth and status of its former inhabitants.
Following the Partition of Bengal in 1947, and later the independence of Bangladesh in 1971, the original community gradually left, leaving their homes to stand as relics of the past.
3. Check out Goaldi Mosque
Not far from the grandeur of Panam Nagar, lies the Goaldi Mosque, a gem of pre-Mughal architecture that dates back to the early 16th century. Built in 1519 under the rule of Sultan Sikandar Shah, it stands as one of the only ancient mosques you can visit in the area.
It’s small but definitely worth the visit if you’re not going to Bagerhat. It’s tucked away in a forested area and you’ll probably be the only tourist there. It’s quite unfortunate to say that this was the only place in Bangladesh that I encountered something…not so good, yet it still doesn’t take away the beauty of this place.
Unlike the grandiose structures of the later Mughal period, this mosque’s beauty lies in its detailed terracotta ornamentation and the intricacy of its brickwork. The mosque’s dome, a distinctive feature of Islamic architecture, is supported by thick walls and corner towers.
4. Immerse in Nature
Imagine stepping out of the car or off the bus, and the first thing that hits you is how much room there is to breathe. It’s a world away from Dhaka’s constant buzz. You’re surrounded by so much greenery and ponds that catch the sky’s reflection. It really makes you want to just stop and stare for a while.
The ponds are not just for show, though. They’re a big part of life here, used for everything from fishing to just cooling off on a hot day.
For anyone coming from Dhaka, this change of pace is like hitting the refresh button. The air feels cleaner, the sky bigger, and the sound of nature replaces the honk of traffic. While it’s not on the same level as the Sundarbans, Sonargaon is the perfect spot for a leisurely walk.
5. Learn About the Local Life
Where to Stay in Dhaka
When visiting Sonargaon, you’re most likely going there as a day trip from Dhaka. I’ve gone more in-depth on the capital city but in the meantime, here are some of the best hotels to stay in Dhaka:
Best Hotels in Dhaka:
- Nascent Gardenia Residence – this is where I personally stayed. It’s in a quiet and cozy neighborhood in Gulshan area. Make sure to put the right one in on your Uber as there’s also another Nascent Gardenia that I mistakenly ended up in which was like an apartment. On the booking website, they mentioned that free airport shuttle is included though they did try to charge me at first when I asked for it. And the shuttle actually was not there when I arrived which put a bit of a sour taste in my mouth. But! They more than made up for it though, the place was perfect. Big and comfortable beds, spacious and quiet rooms. The bellboy was extremely polite and kind, always happy to assist. The bathroom’s shower worked perfectly and came with various toiletries and other amneties including water and fruits. Breakfast is a buffet with a great selection. They also offered me a shuttle back to the airport but I didn’t need it as I was heading to Khulna. All in all, I highly recommend it, just be on the same page and follow up with the airport shuttle as we discussed that a month back so perhaps it got lost.
- Hotel the Capital Ltd. – provides a range of amenities including a fitness center, complimentary WiFi, and on-site parking at no extra cost. This 3-star establishment not only features round-the-clock front desk and concierge services but also caters to families with a kids’ club, offers room service, and facilitates currency exchange. You’ll have the option to dine at the hotel’s restaurant, which serves a variety of Chinese, Indian, and Italian dishes, with special dietary requests such as vegetarian, halal, and vegan meals accommodated.
- InterContinental Dhaka – Experience the luxury of celebrity-like treatment at InterContinental Dhaka, an IHG Hotel. This lavish 5-star hotel boasts an array of upscale facilities, including an outdoor swimming pool, a state-of-the-art fitness center, a serene garden, and a sophisticated restaurant complemented by a chic bar. You’re welcomed around the clock at the 24-hour front desk and can enjoy the convenience of airport transportation, room service, and complimentary WiFi across the premises.
How to Get Around Sonargaon
Sonargaon is a place easily and best explored on foot. The places that you’re here to visit are all reachable via walking. Including the Folk Art and Crafts Museum and Panam Nagar.
Goaldi Mosque might require at least 15 to 20 minutes of walking but the journey there is well worth the effort as it gives you a glimpse of the rural life and the natural sceneries. Otherwise, you can also find a rickshaw.
How to Stay Safe in Bangladesh
Bangladesh is generally an okay place though it isn’t exactly a first world country, as a foreigner you will catch attention and I personally found that people tend to stare. It’s hard not to stand out, but just do your best and ignore it. People are naturally curious. Wearing sunglasses or a balaclava can help.
It’s also a fact that Dhaka is one the most polluted cities on Earth. There’s garbage everywhere and the scents intermingle with the heavy perfumes, incense, spices, and food which completely barrages the senses. I highly recommend wearing a mask. Though Sonargaon is in the rural area so the air here is much cleaner and it was a welcome respite.
As for the food, sticking to vegetarian meals or fancier restaurants should give you that sense of peace. In the end, Bangladesh is one of the few countries that I highly recommend getting travel insurance for when going.
For petty crime, based on my research it’s more on situational than targeted, so just practice common sense and reduce late-night movement.
Best Time to Visit Sonargaon
Plan Your Trip to Bangladesh | Best Travel Resources
Book Your Accommodations
- Booking.com – the world’s leading online booking platform for accomodations around the world, they have an extensive amount of available listings with zero booking fees and best price guarantees.
- Hostelworld – a backpacker’s best friend, Hostelworld has the largest collection of hostels and guesthouses for affordable prices.
Don’t Forget Insurance
- SafetyWing – from Nomad Insurance, an insurance by nomads for nomads. They understand our lifestyle well and have really comprehensive and flexible plans that cater to any traveler.
Find Cheap Flights
- Kiwi.com – my go-to for booking and finding the cheapest flights and it’s helped me save tons of money. They do virtual interlining which is connecting flights from airlines that do not codeshare, so you can find routes that you wouldn’t be able to find normally.
Join Tours & Activities
- GetYourGuide – is one of the best places to find unique tours and activities. I found that it’s an excellent way to meet fellow travelers and create fond memories. They are not only limited to tours as they also offer niche services such as skip-the-line tickets or private transfers.
Catch a Ride
- Rentalcars.com – nothing beats the freedom of the road, Rentalcars.com is the world’s largest online car rental service. They operate across 160 countries so they’re the perfect partner to work with if you find yourself wanting a ride.
